Special Report

New Cosmetic Skin Care Products Guide and How to Evaluate Cosmetic Manufacturers Claims

By Dermatologist Dr. Tim Rosio

People purchase billions of dollars of skin care products every year in the hope that their self diagnosed problems including premature aging, sun damage, acne, rosacea, and more can be adequately treated by over-the-counter (OTC) or mail order company products.  These manufacturers’ products bolster the public’s belief with claims like “Clinically Tested,” “Proven,” “Organic,” or “All Natural.”  Stanford trained Dermatologist Tim J. Rosio, MD, FAAD, a fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology in El Dorado Hills, California breaks down the common myths and offers a skin specialist’s helpful approach to evaluating claims made for improving your skin, and where you can turn to learn more.  Dr. Rosio offers helpful tips from AnewSKIN Dermatology to guide you when selecting newer, more advanced skin care products such as active peptides, growth factors, collagen boosting enzyme blockers, and better sunscreens.

It’s Natural.  Aren’t all our lives a bit too hectic and urbanized, leaving us longing for a return to “Nature”?  Also concerns about uncertain chemicals, pesticides, and carcinogens abound.  First, claims of “It’s Natural” or “Organic” are a misleading psychological approach, says Dr. Rosio, implying that the product is safer or more effective, because it is closer to nature.  There is no scientific data to support this claim.  I remind my patients that Cyanide is both natural and organic, but toxic and dangerous.  In reality, most synthetic substances are far purer, more reliable, better tested and safer.  Furthermore, substances in their natural state usually cannot be put into skin care products; they must be chemically changed and processed before they can be formulated and sold, thus canceling out the “natural” claim.

Ingredient Overload. The current trend to load large numbers of plant extracts into products actually increases the chance that a person will have an allergic or irritant reaction.  Overloaded combination products actually decrease the chance that a possibly favorable ingredient has a chance to make a difference because it is over-diluted by the other ingredients, and its effects may be cancelled out by the other ingredients.  See more of these mechanisms explained in the following articles:

·         Cosmeceuticals (AAD, Patricia K. Farris, MD, FAAD)

·         How to customize your skin care routine with your skin type (AAD, New York, 11/10/09)

·         “Organic” Cosmetics (FDA, 9/15/10)

Scientifically Proven. Dr. Rosio says that the biggest problem with OTC cosmetic products is that their testing is inadequate compared to Dermatologic medical products and they may exaggerate claims.  Cosmetic products do not have to prove they improve a condition or treat a disease.  Most companies do not test with the most trusted medical scientific approach called “the double-blind vehicle controlled study.”  They simply have test subjects apply their cream for a short period and compare how the skin is ‘improved’ compared to untreated skin.  Of course anything is better than nothing, but how do you know their “active ingredient(s)” are doing anything more than the cream or lotion base (vehicle) without it?  You don’t, says Dr. Rosio, because most don’t test the vehicle separately, and few use scientific measuring devices.  Instead, most use statements such as: ‘9 out of 10 had smoother skin after using lotion X.’ In contract, Dermatologists insist on more rigorous scientific studies where both the vehicle with and without the active ingredient(s) are tested, and this is the key…investigators and the subjects do not know which cream has the active substance added.  I also look for measures I can trust that show me the treatment is actually effective, such as the appearance of cells and skin layers under the microscope, and quantity of molecules made by the cell that increase or decrease.

Dermatologist Dr. Tim Rosio gives an exam and skin care advice at AnewSKIN Dermatology in El Dorado Hills, California

Helpful Tips. Dr. Rosio provides these helpful tips when evaluating skin care products:

Don’t be swayed by emotional tactics such as “It’s all natural, and organic.”  Find out what your skin problem or condition is, and your skin type, by asking your Dermatologist.  Many people injure their skin and waste years and hundreds or thousands of dollars on products not ever realizing they have a diagnosis they could and should be treating with the help of a Dermatologist.  Ask what the product claims to do, and what kind of research studies backs it up.  Don’t rely solely on ingredients listings and percentages on bottles.  Bioavailability of ingredients, how well they are dissolved, and other factors can make a huge difference in effectiveness and negative side-effects such as irritation and rashes, notes Dr. Rosio.  See my article: “Cosmetic Recipes for Disaster: How to Ruin Your Skin by Ingredients Only!” (coming soon).  If the claims made sound too good to be true, they probably are.  However, we have made huge advancements in skin care science in the last few years.  Especially in the areas of active peptides, growth factors, cell receptor signaling, and better sunscreens.  Consult your Dermatologist and ask for recommendations based on strong science and professional experience.

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