Dr. Rosio Emphasizes the Importance of Proper Hair Care

Many patients come to see Dermatologist Dr. Tim Rosio at AnewSKIN Dermatology with concerns about their brittle, damaged hair.  Although the trendiest hairstyles and dyes may look fantastic, Dr. Rosio cautions women who subject their hair continuously to unforgiving chemicals and hot styling tools.  After prolonged damage, hair loses its luster, and becomes frail and lifeless.  Dr. Rosio emphasizes the importance of a proper hair care regimen in order to improve hair appearance and strength. 

Dr. Rosio shares some knowledge and tips from dermatologist Zoe D. Draelos, MD, FAAD, and professor at Duke University School of Medicine, who spoke at the 69^th Annual Meeting of the American Academy of Dermatology on Feb. 4, 2011 about proper hair care. 

At this conference in New Orleans, Dr. Draelos taught, “One of the most common misconceptions about hair is that it is alive, when in fact hair is nonliving and does not heal itself once it is injured.  For this reason, once the hair is damaged it cannot heal itself except through new hair growth at the scalp. Women need to understand that the very things that they do to hair to make it appear beautiful, such as using hair dyes, perms and products that straighten the hair will eventually end up damaging the hair’s structure and ultimately affect its appearance.”

What Causes Chemical Hair Damage?

Dr. Rosio says that hair damage and lack of shine results when the outside of the hair cuticle, made of a protective fat layer, is stripped. One of the most common criminals of hair damage is chemicals, which degrade hair of its usual moisturizers. When hair loses its natural moisturizers, it stops holding its style and becomes frizzy.

“Many products have been developed to counter the effects of over-processed hair, and regular moisturizing is a must for women with visible signs of hair damage,” said Dr. Draelos.

Dr. Draelos offers her advice to battle chemical hair damage:

• “Use conditioning shampoos and conditioners regularly to improve the appearance of frizzy hair. 2-in-1 shampoos that remove oil from the scalp, clean the hair, then condition the hair in the rinse phase also are good choices.
• Look for products containing dimethicone, which is available in shampoos, conditioners, sprays and creams. This ingredient has been shown to decrease static electricity, increase shine and improve manageability. 
• Try newly introduced hair serums, which are applied by a few drops on the hands and rubbed through the length of the hair (but should not be applied directly to the scalp). 
• Stop dyeing your hair and opt for hair’s natural hair color instead. 
• If you must dye your hair, stay “on shade” – or dye the hair within three color shades of its natural color. Dyeing hair darker, rather than lighter, also is generally better.”

Give Hair a Break from Heat

Another frequent source of hair harm is heat. The damage results from water in the hair being converted to steam when it is heated, which causes hair to lose its flexibility when the cuticle breaks down.   Easily breakable hair, frizzy split ends, and burnt smelly hair are all results of heat damage. “Unfortunately, heat damaged hair is irreparable and will only improve when it is cut off and healthy hair is allowed to grow in,” says Dr. Rosio.

Dr. Draelos offered these tips for heat-damaged hair:

• “Allow hair to air dry when possible.
• When using a hairdryer, do not use the highest heat setting immediately. Start out on the lowest heat setting first, then gradually increase heat. 
• To straighten hair with a ceramic iron, put a moist towel in the device to protect the hair from direct heat. 
• Look for temperature-controlled devices to control the amount of direct heat to hair. 
• Moisturizing the hair regularly will help the appearance of heat damaged hair to some degree, but stopping the source of heat damage is essential.”

Straightening hair comes at a price

Keratin hair straightening, which combines chemicals AND heat, has become extremely popular at most salons. 

For women considering keratin hair straightening, Dr. Draelos offers these suggestions to women thinking about keratin hair straightening:

• “Avoid this procedure if you have tightly kinked hair, as it will not work in rearranging the natural hair bonds.
• To minimize hair damage and loss, extend the time between treatments. 
• When washing hair, use a generous amount of conditioner to make hair less brittle. 
• If hair becomes frizzy and brittle, stop the procedure and let new hair growth replace damaged hair.”

Every Day Hair Care Tips from Dr. Draelos

• “The less you do to your hair, the better. Avoid over-styling or processing hair.
• Be sure to wash the scalp, which is where the oil is, and then let shampoo run through the hair. Shampoo is meant to clean the scalp primarily and can damage the hair if overused. 
• Let how oily your scalp is determine how often you wash your hair. If your scalp is oily, wash hair more frequently than if the scalp was drier. 
• Conditioner should be used on the ends of the hair, not on the scalp, for best results. 
• Pick a shampoo and conditioner based on your hair shape, such as curly or straight, and your hair condition, such as damaged, fine, or frizzy. These products don’t need to be expensive to work well for your hair. 
• Wear a hat to protect hair from ultraviolet (UV) radiation. “

Dr. Tim Rosio hopes you find Dr. Draelo’s expertise in hair care to be helpful and can take her advice into careful consideration when planning hair treatments and care.   Dr. Rosio can be reached at AnewSKIN Dermatology at his El Dorado Hills, CA and Auburn, CA offices and he urges you to contact your dermatologist with any concerns of brittle, damaged hair or hair loss.